If you are looking for a special but typically unique ‘old world’ Spanish restaurant in a fantastic location then read on. Many Spanish restaurants have now lost what everyone expects from a typical Spanish country restaurant, but not Verdi Vent.
The husband and wife team of Loretta and Stephane (who are German and Belgian respectively) recognized this some 11 years ago and turned a 300 year old semi-abandoned Spanish farmhouse into probably the most successful and memorable dining experience to be found anywhere. . on the Costa Blanca – and it doesn’t cost a fortune!
So come with me on one of the most beautiful trips in the Valencian Region to the Jalón Valley and the small typically Spanish town of Jalón/Xaló (yes, like many towns in the Valencia area, the town has 2 names: normal Spanish and the other Valencian). From here, take the picturesquely impressive winding road in the direction of Bernia and its mountain range. The scenery is quite impressive and the drop to the side is a bit scary (if you choose to look over the edge!). After about 7 kilometers we reach the small village of Maserof with only a few very old properties, the first of which is now a rural museum (whose story is a fascinating story in its own right, maybe I’ll tell you about it another day). . This area is rural with a capital R. There is no running water or electricity. But don’t be discouraged!
Almost to the side, you might walk past this building without looking twice, as apart from a small insignificant sign saying “Verd i Vent”, it looks a bit like a very old and not very welcoming farmhouse. Park in front of the building avoiding the rocks and go up the steep steps with a chain handrail and enter through a rather flimsy door. You are immediately transported back in time. This converted goat farm retains many of its original features. Once your eyes get used to the gloom, there are barrels of wine; exposed stone walls; barrels supported by beams protruding from the wall presumably in past times to store wine and olive oil; hooks in the old walls to tie animals; an open log fire in the cooler months with a small pot of warm potato and herb salad; original handcrafted terracotta stone flooring; a gallery of minstrels where the farmer and his family slept. It takes you back decades and you wonder what life was like back then…
Having been warmly welcomed by Loretta and taken to your table in one of several distinctly individual dining rooms, you will find that there is no menu as such, just an interesting 5-course meal that follows the same format each day with slight variations. The only choice is with the main course, where you can have local shoulder or leg of lamb, usually with herbs and honey from the surrounding mountains cooked in the oven, or a choice of another excellent main course which changes regularly. On your table will be a gut of peanuts in your largest carafe(s) of local Jalón red wine that are automatically filled by the attentive staff as they are emptied, all included in the set price.
Without wanting to spoil the enjoyment of experiencing this great value meal, a typical meal would be warm potato and herb salad with rustic local bread; a large terrine of superb homemade vegetable soup for you to serve as many times as you like; an interesting mixed salad and dressing that changes periodically; herb-roasted shoulder of lamb with vegetables; crepe with jam sauce and of course all the red wine you want. To finish, there is a glass of sweet muscatel dessert wine, also local. Extra coffee and mineral water. This excellent meal will set you back around €17 a head, really good value by anyone’s standards.
But before leaving another lovely touch that adds to the atmosphere: an excellent Spanish singing guitar duo originally from Colombia who roam the restaurant playing and singing a wide range of Spanish music (and taking orders).
If you are looking for a fancy, stylish and modern restaurant then this is not for you. However, if you are looking for excellent, rustic food and quality wine in a setting that will take you back a century or two, then this is the place for you.
Homemade goods are for sale and local artists display their artwork for sale.
Open all year only for lunch. Tuesday closed. This year they also open for the first time some afternoons in July and August.
Verdi Vent is just inland from Jávea, Moraira, Calpe and Denia. The area is excellent for walking or just enjoying the views; an interesting donkey sanctuary is nearby with many rare breeds of donkeys; the Country Museum is almost next door; on Saturdays, the famous trail market stretches along the riverbank in nearby Jalón, below.
This restaurant is a must for anyone visiting this part.
All-inclusive meal costs around €17. Book ahead to reserve a table (and just have a small breakfast before you go!).
Telephone (+34) 96 597 3413.